Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
